Critical Care Nurse's Journey to Cambodia

Dana Wright from Amherst, New York traveled to Cambodia with Americans for UNFPA in January of 2006. This is her story:

I have retired from hospital critical care nursing and have turned my focus to the health and education needs of women and girls worldwide. So when the invitation to travel to Cambodia came across my desk from Americans for UNFPA and the Foundation for Global Leadership I jumped at the chance to see for myself the plight of women there.

Cambodia is still recovering from the brutal Khmer Rouge regime, which killed some 4 million people from 1975 to 1979. Especially hard hit during that time were the professionals in all disciplines in the educated, literate class, sending the country back 100 years in my opinion. Now the country struggles to come into the 21st Century and needs help from the international community. UNFPA, and other UN agencies, give financial support and provide technical expertise to government agencies and the many nongovernmental organizations (NGOs) on the ground.

I was part of a small delegation of supporters of Americans for UNFPA traveling to Cambodia to learn more about UNFPA's programs to provide women's health care - including family planning and HIV prevention - and promote gender equality by improving education for girls, increasing their enrollment and decreasing their drop out rates.

Dana Wright traveled to Cambodia and shares her story. Now you can make a difference by donating to Americans for UNFPA. Your support funds critical programs for women, including family planning and HIV prevention.

UNFPA has been working in Cambodia for 12 years and despite continued progress, the country continues to face many challenges in poverty, health and education. For nine days we visited various UNFPA-funded NGOs doing heroic work in the slums, meeting the needs of people who lack both education and work skills. We visited projects that offer general education, vocational skills and health services to commercial sex workers and street children.

We visited a clinic, open to all, which offers HIV/AIDS testing and counseling where trained young people teach safe sexual practices to their peers to prevent sexually transmitted diseases and unwanted pregnancies. When we arrived, the teens were even having a dance lesson.

The Secretary of State for Health, Professor Huot Eng, told us of the difficulty of meeting so many health needs - especially the high rate of maternal and infant mortality during childbirth - with limited resources. Maternal mortality is estimated at 437 per 100,000 lives births (compared to eight in the United States). Deliveries typically happen at home with traditional birth attendants and hospitals are shunned by most people as unfriendly. We asked Professor Huot what he considered his most pressing priority and he told us trained OB/GYN nurses.

Professor Huot told us he was grateful for partnership with UNFPA, especially in gathering accurate census data that all branches of the government can use. (How can you evaluate your maternal health programs if you don't know how many women you have or how many die in childbirth?) The 1998 census was the first for Cambodia in three decades.

Eighty percent of the population (14 million) live in the rural areas with no electricity, paved roads, sewage treatment or running water. Access to trained nurses is limited. Since most girls drop out after primary school a pre-nursing student is scarce, indeed. The expense of tuition as well as board at a school in a city is beyond the means of most rural girls. Low pay and exposure to blood (HIV) also makes long-term commitment to nursing a problem in Cambodia.

An hour drive from the majestic temples of Angkor along a bumpy, dirt road is a tiny farming village where UNFPA funds a program where whole families come to dance and play a reproductive health quiz show. The teens answered questions about HIV/AIDS without embarrassment as their parents and grandparents looked on. UNFPA's Cambodia Goodwill Ambassador, Dr. Chea Samnang - an actor and singer, came along to this party with us and held the teens spellbound with a pep talk about being safe and staying in school.

Before our trip ended, we watched the sunset from the top of Angkor Wat and prayed for a more peaceful and progressive future for this beautiful country and its people.

If you are interested in traveling with Americans for UNFPA, please send us an e-mail at info@americansforunfpa.org.

Sophanara's Trip to NYC: A Personal Perspective

Sophanara Blogs for Americans for UNFPA

As for the personal reflection I feel that non-profits organizations in the US and Cambodia have similar goals towards promoting women’s status and protecting women and girls rights. Similar centers have been established and vocational trainings have been provided as well as counseling to heal the trauma. However, I personally noted that the communication system between the victim and assistance providers in the US is more modern, especially in terms of technology. In the U.S. the internet and email is a common medium for communicating even when sensitive matters are involved, while in Cambodia service providers have to be community-based agents or provided through a local authority network. In terms of resource mobilization skills, we are not as strong as the Americans for UNFPA; partly because Cambodian society is not very supportive of social development issues and they are frequently influenced by political philosophy.

Attending the Gala event was the most important learning opportunity of my trip to New York in October. I learned the way the organizer (Americans for UNFPA) mobilizes support from its friends and supporters.

The commitment from American honorees, social workers others supportive of UNFPA’s work reflects the western’s value and the way they help/care each other. It shows how Americans lead their lives.

I had a chance to meet the UN Secretary General, Ban Ki-moon and his wife in person – he is a very supportive leader for improving women’s status.

Through the informal discussion with the international honorees, I learnt that the issues challenging developing countries are not much different to one another in how they contribute to assisting their communities – I feel now that we are not alone in our efforts.

It was a very great honor for me to meet with members of the US Congress, the Board of Directors of Americans for UNFPA and its staff members, non-profit organizations and American citizens at different capacities. Most of them shared our concerns although their priorities varied.

I feel that I did not have a chance to listen the voices of the vulnerable groups or the poor people (centre) and the White house (executive body).

The memorable experiences include the varieties of transportation methods that I took from one place to another. I was able to explore many places and states by walking, riding the subway, taking an express train, and taking a bus. The weather in fall was perfect for me; it was hot like summer time. On the east coast in particular the trees were green and natural. It was so surprised when I saw lots of forest beside the highway. I have always thought that in the industrialized countries there would not much natural resources conserved such as big trees, birds, animals.

I found that NYC is a commercial center and time is valuable for New Yorkers, people walk very fast in crowds and we could not sit longer in a restaurant once we have dined given demands from other clients. The US, NY in particular, is the country for everybody – I met people from various countries including Asians, Africans, Caribbean’s, Arabians and Europeans, though they are legally American citizens, their original languages are used among their folks – making them feel like their home countries. I myself did not see much gap between the rich and poor. People seem to respect law and do not interfere in other’s private lives.

Though, I rarely saw smiles on New Yorkers’ faces, most of them who came into my contact are very friendly and helpful. The personal relationships with few American friends are wealthy and unforgettable memory in my life! I, very much, believe in the educational qualification in the US, therefore, I wish I would have chance to graduate there! (That’s my dream!)

My Trip to NYC with 2007 Americans for UNFPA International Honoree from Cambodia

Sophanara guest blogs for Americans for UNFPA.


The International Award organized by Americans for UNFPA provides a great opportunity to the activists who work at the ground to improve the health and dignity for women by recognizing and acknowledging them globally. In addition to mobilizing resources, women-related issues have been consistently raised through this high-level advocacy effort and the people living in industrialized countries such as the U.S. citizens gain a better view on what happens to marginalized groups, especially women in developing communities. Also activists can share personal and work experiences on how they are challenged and how it can be frustrating when coping with these kinds of sensitive issues. Activists also explain how they contribute to improving the lives of suffered people in their own community.

In complement to advocacy efforts constantly used by UNFPA, it has been observed that the attention that media pays to women's issues was gained gradually. Today, women’s related issues including health, gender, and domestic violence and trafficking are frequently talked about in the media.

Given the active role of the Cambodian Women's Crisis Center (CWCC) in addressing women’s issues, in particular providing legal support to women the work is greatly appreciated by beneficiaries, stakeholders and donors. We have learned that Ms. Ket Noeun is a very committed, dedicated and devoted person in advocating women’s problems. Based on this Noeun was nominated and we believe she is role model as a strong advocate in her community. She was excited and energized once she learnt that her nomination was successfully awarded, hence her dedication has been rewarded. She hoped that her experiences from the grass root level would convince American’s people to have further support to Cambodia social development.

It was amazing that Noeun could witness and represent UNFPA support at the community level to members of Congress. As part of this, we believe that American government will be reconsidering political support to UNFPA’s roles and interventions globally.

At the same time, honoree felt that the fund provided by the UNFPA country office to support her work does not comprehensively respond to the needs of women.

As always, Noeun continuously carries out her efforts in advocating for women’s health by organizing debates, forums, events in the community and publicly and it has been captured steadily by media.

Meeting the 2007 International Honorees

In July Americans for UNFPA traveled to far and exotic lands to meet and film three recipients of the International Award for the Health and Dignity of Women.

Deni Robey journeyed to Niger to meet Madame Salamatou Traoré. She addresses the health, social and long-term economic needs of Nigerien women who have suffered an obstetric fistula. A condition that affects very poor women in remote communities, fistulas rob women of their lives and are likely to reoccur, even when women undergo repair surgery. Traoré’s strategies involve not just treatment but prevention and social reintegration.

Angeline Martyn traveled to Mongolia to meet Dr. Dorj Munkhuu and Cambodia to meet Ket Noeun. Dr. Munkhuu is known throughout Mongolia as one of the country’s most revered and influential leaders. A great-grandmother, doctor and member of Parliament, Dr. Munkhuu has helped shape democracy in Mongolia and brought about changes that improve women’s health and position them to win social and political power. She even ask for us to teach her lobbying techniques. Ket Noeun seeks justice for women and girls in Cambodia who have survived trafficking, domestic violence and rape. Beloved by those she fights for, Noeun engages police and other authorities to partner with the Cambodian Women’s Crisis Center (CWCC) to reduce violence in women’s lives and hold perpetrators accountable.

The Deception Endured by Domestic Workers and the Impact of Trafficking

A 22 year old woman and her mother greeted us at our next stop in the village. There house was made of the same material as the Mrs. Heang’s but it was much larger and had a distinctly separate kitchen area at the base and a narrow staircase that lead us to a large living areas. Beautiful straw mats lined the floors, which I later learned the mom made herself.

Upstairs—they had walls and two windows, overlooking the kitchen area. The windows were cut outs—so they were permanently open.

I remember thinking, wow, this is really nice. And, for them it was. At the same time, it was sad to think that a few walls, and windows made for a significantly better living experience. In NY we complain about our tiny apartments—but we rarely think that the bare basics that we take for granted are pure luxury for counterparts around the world.

We sat together on the mats upstairs. The 22 year old sat silently next to her mom. If I hadn’t known her age I would have guessed 14. Ms. Noeun and Sophanara assured me that they both wanted to meet with us.

After about 5 minutes of taping, I asked the videographer to stop. I hadn’t even heard any of the dialogue translated, but I saw from the lost look on the 22 year olds face as her mom spoke, that a difficult story was being re-hashed and I just didn’t feel that is was fair to make her re-live the experience in any way, especially it is wasn’t even her talking about it.

The mom clearly was still traumatized by the experience and felt a great deal of responsibility. She blamed herself, a widow in poverty, for encouraging her daughter to seek work as a domestic worker (helping with house work, cleaning, cooking, etc) for a foreigner. Her daughter, along with 4 other girls lived full time with the man from New Zealand and his Cambodian wife. While living there all 5 girls were sexually assaulted. The first time it happened to the 22 year old, she didn’t say anything—she didn’t know what to do. The second time, she dropped a hint to one of the others and soon learned that many had already been abused. She’d been threatened by the man, and her fellow workers also threatened her not to tell. They would lose their income, they would become disgraced by their families, and on top of that, there didn’t really seem like a way to escape.

The 22 year old managed to escape and her family supported her and pressed charges. The man is now in prison. But the long term implications linger. Her mother explained that in Cambodia, being a virgin before marriage is a must. “I have three daughters- 28, 22, 19. Because this happened to one of my daughters none of them have been able to get married….most girls here are married before age 19.” CWCC is working on community empowerment, but changing deep rooted stereotypes are not easy.

The daughter herself seemed to have more courage, more optimism. She said she hopes to learn to be a hair stylist and hopes to have the money one day to start her own company. She has the motivation to succeed. She smiled, I think almost with surprise, when I commended her courage and explained that often victims don’t have the courage to come forward. I said she is an example of hope for so many other victims. And her legal victory, with CWCC’s support, and her willingness to speak up, has prevented other women from becoming victims. I shared a poster of the Brooklyn Bridge with her and suggested that when she looks at it in the future to remember that many Americans believe in her and support her. I explained that in many ways she is a role model to other survivors for her courage and strength to come forward.

Skinny Cows and Economic Empowerment in the Village

We went to a local village today. It was unlike anything I could have imagined. The drive there was an escape away from hotel-tourist central. As I looked to the side of the road, I was shocked by how skinny and hungry the cows looked. Talk about an oxy moron. I kept picturing the black and white wrappers of the low fat, “skinny cow ice cream bars…and thinking if only they KNEW there was such a thing, I think the ice cream company would change the name. I could see their bones through their skin.

En route we stopped for lunch. Mind you at this point I’d already spent a day and a half with our video crew. Half way through lunch, I realized that one of the video guys is actually American! California driver’s license and all. The day prior, when we were having trouble translating a phrase or two, I noticed he chimed in, but he certainly didn’t say more than 20 words the whole day. I guess it’s easier to casually forget to mention that you speak English than to get stuck translating when you signed onto videotape. But, it was nice to be able to communicate now and again without a language barrier. Lunch by the way was amazing. Soups are an essential part of Cambodian eating. Today’s we had what’s called “Sour Soup.” Not so sour and pretty good. We also had some fried fish. Parts of Siem Reap are quite touristy, and like we associate the sea side with seafood; I think Siem Reap has the same feeling.

As we walked through dirt paths by what felt like a mini forest, I was in some way expecting to see a simple, small house. A house as we know it that is--with walls, roofs, and a door that can keep the outside world out. Mind you that the only buildings I’d seen so far in Cambodia, were hotels, the CWCC office space, the CWCC Shelter for Women and Children, the outside of the Royal Place/Residence (its right in the city center), the police station, a restaurant or two and rows of hotels catering to largely international tourists.

We walked through the trees, down the dirt path, and next thing I knew Ms. Noeun was grinning ear to ear as she stumbled upon a woman and a small child that used to live at her shelter. It wasn’t the family we had scheduled to meet up with, and since we seemed to be in such a desolate village, I was surprised that she ran into someone she knew.

Ms. Nouen embraced the child in her arms and carried her as she spoke to the woman. According to Sophanara- the UNFPA Cambodia Communications Associate and my ad-hoc translator, the woman referred to Ms. Noeun “as mom” –“hello mom, so nice to see you, yes I am keeping well mom…” As the day went on these phrases became common place. I had the opportunity to meet three families that had been reintegrated into their communities following their stay at CWCC and the end of their legal battles related to their rape, trafficking and domestic violence cases.

Ms. Noeun would smile when the women referred to her as mom, and she’d laugh about it. To one of the women she said, how can YOU call me mom? You are older than me and have three kids of you own. As we walked to the end of the path, I saw a woman in blue standing at her wooden table cutting coconuts in half. She stood under what looked like a tree house with a thatched, straw rood. As I look around (there were no wall) I didn’t seen anything that resembled a bed.

Mrs. Heang was the woman is blue’s name. She has a beautiful, welcoming face. Her 3 year old daughter lingered by her side and her 8 year old peaked around a tree, checking out the video crew as they set up the cameras. She also has an 18 year old, but he was away at school, thanks to a scholarship he’d received from CWCC.

She makes cake for a living and earns between 6000-9000 riel a day (less than $2usd on average) She sells the cake to her neighbors in the village and she also receives small sums of money or assistance through social services. Though she learned to sew while at CWCC when she left the center there were no machines available for donation. So instead, she developed a business plan with CWCC’s support to start her cake making business and she was granted start up capital of $100,000 Riel…($25). It was incredible to see what a difference that money (the equivalent of two cab rides home from midtown Manhattan to my apartment) had on her life.

As she spoke to us, she reflected a bit on how her life had changed. She was happy with her life changes and she cherished her children with all her heart. She said, “I know, that still, my economic situation is not very good, but at least I am not being threatened every day.” What makes a happy home, really? I learned that it is far more than a roof over your head and first and foremost it is a safe space.

After a quick segment of filming, we spent a few minutes together. They let me test out what seemed like a see-saw and learned how to “grind spices.” I stood on one end and the other end, like a hammer, pounded into the ground, chopping, breaking, etc. anything that needed to be chopped. I LOVE my pampered chef chopper, and value a good mortar and pestle but this wooden contraption took the cake in terms of efficiency, design, and easy of use!
Mrs. Heang invited us to sit down with her on the mat, and her mother, who also lives with her joined us. She continued to cut coconuts without any difficulty (whereas I have to use all my might to even cut through a watermelon) and poured the fresh juice for us. We drank some coconut juice and the kids ate the chocolate chip granola bar that I had in my purse. It was so fun to watch the little girl smear the chocolate over her face and then pick up the coconut juice, snap her head back and pour the fresh juice in. It could have been a commercial it was so cute. For those few minutes, I completely forgot about the sweat pouring down my face. In fact I don’t think I even felt the heat. I just felt such optimism, as I sat with this genuinely happy, healthy, strong family, who despite their difficult living situation seemed to live life to its fullest. I didn’t want to leave.

First Day in Cambodia

Breakfast at the hotel was a mix of soup, fried rice, kimchi, eggs, fruit, pancakes and toast. Sophanara (UNFPA Cambodia Communications Associate) and Sultan (Driver) met me at about 8am and the film crew followed in a pick up truck behind them.

We went straight to the Cambodian Women’s Crisis Center Shelter. Like most shelters there was no identifying information outside to be sure that abusers, etc, are unable to find it. Ms. Noeun was there to greet me and I could see she had plenty of energy. Her motorcycle was parked out front, since she too had just arrived. I explained that it would be wonderful if she could just go about her morning like she normally would—and allow the video crew to follow behind her. I’m sure she did some of her meetings in fast forward but she really was great at ignoring the camera and giving her un-dived attention to each person she encountered.

Women and children who have been victims of domestic violence or sexual abuse are able to live at the shelter during their legal process. Ms. Noeun started her morning by stopping into the kids classroom. Kids of all ages were in one room—and when we walked through they were busy tracing shapes at the table. A couple babies were asleep in small hammocks and a few kids were sitting in a group and drawing. They all looked forward to seeing Ms. Noeun and responded early as she asked them about how they were and what they were working on. She stopped and helped them on their project and makes time to somehow make each child feel acknowledged.

The Sewing room was pretty cool for me to see. Twelve extra sewing machines were against the wall—that said donated by UNFPA. When the woman are ready to leave the Center they are given one each allowing with 100,000 Riel ( $25) to help them start their own business.

Women also learned how to cook. Each day four women are responsible for cooking. They are given $25 to go to the market and prepare 4 meals for 50 people (breakfast, lunch, snack, dinner). They had porridge and water for breakfast and for lunch they were making fries, sour soup, fried tofu, and rice. They usually calculate costs at 50 cents per person per day but they also reserve some money for the kids to have transportation to school and also for travel to the market.

The girls are age 17 and younger; boys age 8 and younger. Women vary in age—but the average age in 55. Most stay for about 8 months to one year. Other women come to receive CWCC legal services and support, but they chose to live with family instead of at the shelter.

CWCC has an in-house attorney and medical staff that come to the center. There is one other center is Siem Reap that provides similar services. Though the capacity of the shelter is 50 people, they’ve never turned anyone away.

Sometimes the women go back and live with their abuser, who is most cases is their husband. The husbands must testify and sign a document with CWCC promising that they won’t abuse again. CWCC explains that this does not always work, but they system is currently set up so that women can come back three times if they need to.

I spent the afternoon learning more about Ms. Noeun and her work. We went to the Center and met her team there. She actually lives at her office and two of her grandkids live really close by. At the end of the day she took them on a motorcycle ride to the park and it was fun to watch as they held tight to their grandmother.

My Journey To Siem Reap

I've arrived safely in Siem Reap. The flight was delayed though for the first hour of the delay the airline claims that my ticket, itinerary, and all related documentation actually listed my flight time wrong. Though my ticket said 7:30pm departure from Seoul, Korea the airline staff were adamant that the flight was actually scheduled for 8:30pm. Ok, whatever, Í'll go with the flow. Since I had several hours to pass, I sat down for some traditional Korean food-- double boiled beef short ribs in broth. A couple years ago I learned how to make Korean style bbq short ribs...so it was fun to experience the authentic cuisine. I think I was the only non-Korean person in the whole restaurant.
The flight took off until about 9:30pm and I arrived in Siem Reap about 5.5 hours later. Of course, just my luck, there is a 2 hour time difference between Korea and Cambodia (3 between Mongolia and Cambodia) so it might have only been 1am in Cambodia but as far as my internal time clock new it was 3 am!!
Though my hotel was supposed to pick me up from the airport, when Sophanara, the UNFPA Cambodia representative who was meeting me in Siem Reap, stopped by the hotel to make sure everything was set for my arrival., the hotel manager said that her staff had gone home for the night and sorry, there is no one to pick me up. Sultan, also from UNPFA Cambodia, saved the day, and though he too was exhausted from driving Sophanara from Phnom Phen that afternoon. He graciously offered to pick me up and stood waiting, smiling at the airport to greet me.
What a difference a friendly face makes upon arrival in a new place. I felt at home immediately.
Even though it is so late at night, it is incredible humid out. The road from the airport to the hotel felt very dismal. Unlike Ulan Bator, which felt somewhat industrialized with pockets of great disparity, tonight my eyes only saw what felt very much like a low income country in need. It was strange to have the immediate feeling that UNFPA's help was needed. I was also reminded of Sri Lanka. In Sri Lanka the road from the airport is pretty dark and dismal, but as you approach the city the strips of hotels feel like Las Vegas. I know Siem Reap is known to be a huge tourist destination, so maybe it's the just the late night arrival and the humidity. We shall see.
My days in Cambodia are very, very packed. I'm not sure when I'll be able to post next. In the mean time, I encourage you all to read my friend Rebecca's blog. She traveled to Cambodia with Americans for UNFPA in January with a delegation of about 12 Americans. Because staff and guests of Americans for UNFPA were here so recently, my trip is focused closely on meeting Ms. Ket Noeun, 2007 Americans for UNFPA International Honoree for the Health and Dignity of Women. Ms. Noeun is the provinical coordinator for the Cambodian Women's Crisis Center and runs a shelter for women. Her Center is heavily involved in the legal aspects of the work and has unique community partnerships to ensure health, dignity and justice for vicitms and the community at large.

Please don't forget

We emerge from the bumpy unpaved roads of the countryside to the shockingly modern hotel strip in Siem Reap, developed only because the Western and Japanese tourists have come to see the splendid temples of Angkor Wat. A new hotel goes up once a month here. It is easy to understand why most outsiders have forgotten there is a larger plight in Cambodia; it would be hard to imagine the poverty and the lack of development if Siem Reap was all one saw of the country.
Here too we visit the programs of NGOs, NGOs doing the work that the government has forgotten. We are bearing witness, we have come to hear that the Cambodia government spends 50% of its budget on the military, and only 2% of that budget on health care. And here we were, as Americans, doing the work that our U.S. government has forgotten or neglected to do. We, as Americans, could help reduce the number of deaths in Cambodia, but for 5 years the U.S. government has put a halt to this by withholding funds to UNFPA. With U.S. help, Cambodian women will surly have a better chance of living. The U.S. is the only country to withhold funds to UNFPA for reasons that are political and not financial. Where has our concern for humanity gone?
We bear witness to Cambodia, and to the work that UNFPA is funding here. To the programs that allow the chance for hope, health, and a better life. Let us remember.
As I return to the U.S what can I do know? I promise not to forget. And I hope that the words and experiences I've shared will encourage each of you to call your Senators and Representatives and urge them to support UNFPA, we can help more women live to see their children. Everyday Americans for UNFPA works to help us see our role in promoting the health of women worldwide. Join them in their efforts.

Driving Reflections

We drive. Flat fields with palm trees popped up like feather dusters. Everything is brown and dusty now in the dry season, layers of sand coating the palm trees like chocolate, as though the entire country is an attic waiting to be dusted off from misuse. We visit a rural hospital where the prisoners from the local jail who come for treatment are restrained to their beds, where a patient with HIV lies forgotten outside.
There is hope here, in the form of the monks with their saffron umbrellas and turmeric robes. The monks preach of HIV prevention in terms of good karma, in a way that speaks to the Buddhist religion of the Cambodian people. The monks tell us they are willing to talk about condom use, about reproductive health.
It is not enough of course. Inequality and domestic violence still exists, and in the shelter nearby, women are rocking their babies in hammocks in this place to which they have escaped. "Whenever we argued, my husband threatened to cut our baby in half so we could each have a piece of him," she explains. The chubby baby sleeps unawares of its impending doom, at peace now because his mother had this shelter to run to. It's my hope that this is an extreme story, but the message and call for help remains prominent.

Friends, Smiles, Hope

We dine at the Friends Restaurant, an organization where those who have been forgotten and abandoned on the street are remembered again. Friends reaches 1,000 street children a day, and has made extraordinary gains in the ten years since its founding. We watch the children giggling as they are given schooling, watch the adolescents who are learning practical life skills such as cooking and mechanics, alongside health classes and talks on gender. They smile at our cameras so genuinely.
As do the poorest of the poor when we visit them in their slums, greeting us with smiles and hope. We enter the slum along a rickety platform that runs between two buildings, and are instantly met by the heaps of garbage and the putrid stench rising from between the ramshackle wooden huts. But there are smiles on the faces. They cluster around peer educators – also funded by UNFPA – here as well, and laugh at the games and the lessons. These people have not forgotten to love life, and we should not forget that they have the right to long life, and good health.

Is there a women's movement?

We visit a maternal hospital, strikingly modern by Cambodian standards, built not by their own government but by the Japanese. There are low wooden ceilings and wooden benches, where the expectant mothers watch instructional videos and pop Thai TV while they wait their turn. It is 5000 rial for the first visit, the equivalent of about $4.25 US currency, and it is a prohibitive sum for many.
Four hundred and fifty out of every 100,000 women in Cambodia die in childbirth; a rate 10 times higher than the U.S. We learn that UNFPA has significantly reduced the rate of maternal mortality in 8 countries, but in Cambodia much help is still needed.
At the Ministry of Women's Affairs that afternoon, they tell us that 52% of Cambodia's 13 million citizens are women, but that they are much poorer than their male counterparts. Although women make up 74% of the labor force, they are also far more often in low-paying jobs. It is a theme reflected in the highest echelons as well. At the Ministry of Women's Affairs, 700 of the 850 employees are women. That percentage is far smaller in other government bureaus. The Ministry receives only 5% of the government's budget, with the highest portions going to agriculture, industry, telecommunications etc. So has the government, too, forgotten?
Gender mainstreaming is a priority right now, they tell as at the Ministry, and legal rights, but the biggest obstacle they face is the limited resources they receive. There are lofty goals to change social norms, to alter the fact that most decision-making now lies with men. It is a part of the national strategy to say that women are the backbone of economic development and stability, they tell us. I listen for what they don't say, for the stories of sex trafficking and inadequate access to skilled birth attendants and gender inequality. "Is there a women's movement in the country?" a delegate asks pointedly. Not really, they admit.
"How much money would you need to cover your work in all the provinces?" another delegate pries. $30,000 a year would fund all their work in eight provinces they suggest.

Peer Educators at the Khmer Youth Association

The community groups have not forgotten. Up we climb, up a flight of stairs as steep as those from a ship's ladder, to a room with a whirring fan. The Khmer Youth Association is one of many programs in the country funded by UNFPA. It sends peer educators to target communities where they teach open communication between parents, youths, and teachers around the topics of reproductive health, HIV prevention, and gender equality. Some parents remain reluctant and do not allow their children to join these groups. But the hindrances to KYA's work have solutions. The more open the dialogue that continues, the more parents will be willing to allow such peer education to go on. Likewise with the remote locations of the provinces. The KYA can only reach target communities in certain seasons, because rain at other times of the year makes access impossible. If the infrastructure of the country were improved, so too would the health and safety of its citizens. If we don't forget.

Early Reflections - Cambodia, A Forgotten Country?

"Cambodia feels a forgotten country," remarked one of the Americans for UNFPA delegates on our first day in Phnom Penh. It was not hard to understand her comment. I had arrived the night before, and on the drive from the airport we passed shacks set up on sidewalks, fruit juice stands, and clusters of people eating out of bowls at plastic tables and chairs. Scooters whipped in hair-raising speed between larger vans and cars, which were few and far between. There were no high rise buildings. The sticky sweet smell in the air was at odds with the well-kept hotel in front of which the van finally stopped. There was a gecko lizard waiting on the ceiling of my room. Cambodia is overwhelming to every one of the five senses; a stench rolls off the river, the eyes have to constantly scan for the scooters zipping next to one's shoulder. The sun and the humidity seep into skin, the voices at waist high call out offers of books and sunglasses in a non-stop chatter, children walk by with one mangled limb, adults who end at the waist roll along in wheelchairs. "Need a ride, need a ride?" calls a rickshaw driver with every pace.
Yet for all the bustle, Phnom Penh did feel forgotten. There were hardly any tourists. Except for delegates like us there to observe and others from hospitals, NGOs, health agencies, who had come to deliver services that were not provided by anyone else in the country. It felt forgotten also because most Americans forget – or never know – that people face such grave health struggles. It is easy to become caught up in the consumerism of our high-speed culture. It made it feel doubly important, then, that our group of fourteen had come to bear witness to it all. To the ill, peddling to help; to the implements of torture in the Pol Pot era prison; to the hollowed out trenches in the ground marking the mass graves at the Killing Fields. This was not ancient history – all of our delegates and tour guides were alive when these atrocities happened a mere thirty years ago. They have not forgotten. Nor has UNFPA. UNFPA was established in Cambodia in 1994, and through its various programs, aims to provide support to the government so it can incorporate issues of population development, reproductive health, maternal health and more into its agenda. One of the keys, of course, would be eradication of poverty, an omnipresent shadow as one walks the overcrowded sidewalks and slums. The eradication of poverty is intimately connected to the health and rights of women.